Tuesday, December 29, 2009

Egypt - December 26-31

We have internet at the hostel where we are staying - so will start the blog while we are waiting for the train to Luxor (10:15 departure for an overnite trip). The hostel is really comfy - has hot water showers and nice rooms and is well located in downtown. For $13/person/nite we can't complain (oh, and includes breakfast tho' we've been going to a nearby McDonalds!!).




Judith, another older female PCV and I left from Entebbe w/o incident. We had a stop in Nairobi and then a short, unannounced stop in Karthoum, Sudan (the ticket said in small print "1 technical stop" - we think they didn't want to scare people by saying they were landing in Sudan). Moment of panic when we went through customs in Egypt and the guy said we had to have a visa (which I had not researched) but you got one at the money changing booth for $15!!! Got our Egyptian Pounds (5.4 to a dollar) and we were met by a taxi sent by the Hostel (nice touch at 11:30 at nite).



Cairo was amazing late at nite - roads were packedl and the streets in downtown were full of shoppers!!! The 9 the next morning a driver met us at the hostel and took us to some of the local sights....cost $15 each for the driver for the day and quite a luxury!!! We went first to Saqqara where the first pyramid was built (2500 B.C.) - the Step Pyramid - and saw a temple and a museum of Imotep (he was a good guy it appears - the king's builder). Saw some statues at Memphis and then went to Giza to see the pyramids. Our driver made it sound like it was a LONG walk to and around the pyramids and took us to "a friend" who rented camels and horses - we chose horses. It turned out he could have driven up to the visitor center and we could have walked around, but the horses were fun. Would have felt like Lawerence of Arabia riding over the sand but the guy who took us was nervous about our riding ability so it was a slow trip. We saw the 3 big pyramids at Giza and the Sphinx - it was amazing to be standing by (and climbing on) the pyramids!!! The Sphinx has seen better days - smaller than I expected and the face is nearly gone. Had a great dinner of kashari near our hotel - rice, hummus, pasta, tomatoes and onions....the restaurant that we went to only serves that one thing in small, medium or large bowls and the place was packed! We walked around the streets - again, just full of people walking or shopping - mainly clothing stores and pastry shops in our neighborhood!


Impressions of Cairo - people are extremely friendly - they stop us and talk if they know English; it's really overwhelming just thinking of being in Cairo. As we drove around outside the main town we saw lots of donkey carts loaded w. great looking vegetables and fruits, lots of trash blown about (unfortunately), lots of unfinished apt. construction, most women have headscarves or burquas, the children are beautiful curly headed children, many smokers, lots of police everywhere (keep the tourists safe and happy), and just a busy, busy, noisy place (20 million in Cairo). It's surprising to see all light skinned people, too!


On the 28th we went in the a.m. to the train station to try to book a seat to Luxor - the sleeping cars were all full as were the sitting car for that nite, but we got seats on the sitting car for the 29th - a bit disappointed at only having one day in Luxor - and we found out later that you can't book a return trip from the Cairo station (all the trains for foreigners run overnite)- just have to take your chances in Luxor (and we have return airline tickets for the 31st so have to come back the night of the 30th!)...a bit nervous. We went to the Egyptian Museum - got there around 11 but decided it was too packed so took a cab to the Citadel, a old fort and huge mosque w. layers and layers of history! Cabs are fairly cheap, but it's a hassle arguing w. the drivers over the fare!

Mosque at the Citadel was just gorgeous! Then we took a cab to Old Cairo and the Coptic Christian area of Cairo - again, impressive building and layers of history! We found out there was a Metro (subway) and took that back to town - it has limited lines, but is great and costs 20 cents! We are discovering a lot as we go along!


On the 29th a.m. we went to McDonalds again - really enjoying the Egg McMuffins. We went early to the Musuem and got right in at 9:00.....rushed up to the Tutankahem exhibit - absolutely breathtaking! The musuem is wonderful, but things are not labeled and there's little information but you have to be impressed. There must be literally hundreds of painted/carved mummy cases! Most of the people were in groups and so moved through quickly...and we avoided them. After that we walked on a bridge over the Nile and went to the Cairo Tower where you can go up and look over the city - it was fun to look around at the places we'd been to.


Walked back over the river, had lunch and decided to ride the Metro to the northern end of the line - cheap way to see the city outskirts! On the way back we took the "women's car" - only women allowed! On our way back to the hotel we decided to check out Egypt Air from Luxor to Cairo and were able to book a flight for the morning of the 31st for only $77 so we fly back! We went back to the hostel where we'd left our bags for the day and the guy there was able to arrange a hotel and driver for us in Luxor - also pretty inexpensive and nice to know we will be back to get our flight on the 31st (and a nite of sleep and a shower between the nite on the train and the nite on the plane).


Part II: Continuing the saga after our return from Luxor . On Tuesday nite we walked to the Metro station at 9:00 to travel to the train station - 5 of us from the hostel - 3 Americans, 2 Germans. The train left nearly on time and we had a compartment w. 6 seats (another guy from Spain)....better than I thought. Slept on the floor and seats. Got to Luxor (420 miles south) at 8 a.m. - fun to watch the scenery after sunrise from the train - lots of vegetables growing on the land by the Nile. There was a man in Luxor waiting for us w. a sign (YEA)...took us to a very nice hotel right in the middle of town - had our own bath, hot water showers AND a TV - my standards of "really nice" are low these days. We met our guide and driver and took off by 8:30 for the Valley of the Kings....it's across the river from the town of Luxor in a desolate area of limestone cliffs. The kings of the Middle Kingdom built their tombs there - nothing above ground except fabulous rock formations (tops of hills have a pyramidal shape which is one of the reasons the area was chosen). For our ticket we could go into 3 tombs....you go down into the chambers - it's a bit spooky for the claustrophobic but there are beautiful carvings on the walls and some artifacts (tho' most have been stolen or are in the museum). Unfortunately you can't take pictures even of the scenery.

Then we went on to the Temple of Queen Hutshipsut - it was totally rebuilt from original stone. An impressive building and story of the queen who was discredited in death by her stepson. We decided to skip the Valley of the Queens - had to do Luxor in one day. We were lucky to have the driver and guide - really moved things along since some things are on the West side of the Nile and some on the East. Our guide was interesting, but sometimes we longed for time to just walk around and stare!!!

By noon we were back on the East Bank and went to the Temple of Karnak (actually he started it and they kept adding on for 2000 years)....it was absolutely fabulous - enormous and so full of history.....columns, arches, buildings, statues....after we let the guide go we just sat and tried to take it in!!! Pictures won't do it justice.

Had a very late lunch at a local restaurant - lamb stew and rice; Walked around and through the huge bazaar - everyone wants you to buy!!!! Went to the hotel for a shower and some TV and an early bedtime (had been wearing the same clothes for 3 days - hygiene is slipping, too).

This a.m. (New Year's Eve) a driver came to the hotel to take us to the airport (the guy at the Australian Hostel set it all up for us - I don't know how they do it but it's great)....BUT, when we got to the ticket counter we found out that when the "kid" at Egypt Air wrote out our tickets he put Jan. 31 instead of Dec. 31 and I didn't check.....when will I learn to check and re-check? Fortunately there are lots of flights of tour groups and we were only 2 people w/o luggage so we got on a 10 a.m. flight and back to Cairo in lots of time. Went to a great public park in town and had lunch overlooking the Citadel - walked back to the hotel through an older area of town and through a huge bazaar area - some local and some tourist stuff!! Sensory overload!!!

So, that's it - don't think it's all sunk in yet - but will someday. Judith was a good traveling companion - we both go to bed early and get up early; we traveled "on the cheap" but when we needed to we spent some money to get things done (actually, our guides were so cheap by American standards we were amazed!). Australian Hostel staff was great in arranging things for us and letting us "camp" here when we were inbetween. For an "unplanned trip" - not my usual obsessiveness - it went really well!! Back to Kampala tomorrow a.m. (Jan. 1, 2010) at 9 a.m. and then on to Nkokonjeru! Hope to get a few pictures out soon and will send Gail a CD when I can.

HAPPY NEW YEAR TO EVERYONE - Best wishes for a wonderful year in 2010! I'm excited that it's my "coming home year"..... Thanks again for all your support - could not have done it w/o you all!!!

Saturday, December 26, 2009

December 26, 2009 Boxing Day

Attempted to leave Nkokonjeru early but not much activity at 6 a.m. We did leave at 7:45 and little traffic - it's Boxing Day, which is also a National Holiday. Went to my favorite internet cafe and it wasn't open; came to Garden City Mall to find an ATM that will give me U.S. Dollars and amazingly, the internet cafe here is open. I'm going to blog and then head out to the airport for our flight to Cairo! Yes, I'm going to Egypt - with Judith, another senior volunteer. We'll be back in Uganda on the 1st - will spend New Year's Eve in the air!!! So, if you ever felt sorry for me you can stop now!

Haven't blogged since I came back from Rwanda - lots of info, but I'll try not to be too long winded.
Survived the 10 hour bus ride (one stop for potty break - goal is total dehydration!). Walked down to the Kampala taxi park marveling at the difference in Kamapal and Kigali...Kampala is much bigger but is full of garbage, unregulated traffic, sellers all over the sidewalks making it impossible to walk on them -you have to take your chances w. the traffic on the street! Kigali is so neat and orderly - there may be less personal freedom, but asthetically, it's a lot nicer (and smells better).

Got back to Nkokonjeru at 7:45 and unpacked and went to bed. Went back to Kampala Friday a.m. to meet w. Judith to plan the trip to Egypt.

LOTS went on at PH while I was in Rwanda; Evelyn and Tessa (Holland volunteers) went shopping w. Sr. Juliet for 150 basins, soap, toothbrushes, toothpaste, vaseline, etc. plus cleaning brooms and soap. They also booked 100 baby layers (which came Thursday - 17th). Becky came back on Thursday too (U.K. Volunteer) and is now living in an apartment at the convent. Kids had spent days picking corn by hand - even cooked and ate meals in the field. Friday, there was a competition at PH, sponsored by Cheshire Foundation, to choose a young person to go to a conference in So. Africa in FEb. and become a spokesperson for "Young Voices" - an advocacy group for the disabled. Josephine won for the Mukono district but has to compete w. the winner from the Budaka district. AND, Sr. Goretti had her surgery - guess they took the appendix which was really enlarged and pressing on her intestines and her uterus (fibroids)....had it done at Nkokonjeru Hospital and seems to be O.K. Nelson gave a review of the big trip to CoRSU Hospital and Katelemwa Rehab Center Tuesday - they left at 7:30 a.m. and got back at 9!!

Saturday I washed clothes and Becky and I helped Nelson plant cassava (root crop) - just put sticks from the old plants in holes and cover! Another new skill (along w. planting bananas) that is not too marketable in Minnesota!!

Sunday, Evelyn and Tessa handed out plastic shoes for everyone they had bought - then they took four kids to the pool at the Colline hotel in Mukono - guess it was quite a task...kids here don't swim and fear water (they took four boys the previous Sunday)....had to buy suits and water wings! But what an adventure for those kids!

Monday, the whole place (about 46 people) went on a rented bus to Kampala sponsored by Eveliyn and Tessa - Josephine and I stopped off early to go to the competition, but the rest went to the airport, where they actually got out and went into a viewing area and rode an elevator!!! (Sr. Juliet's first elevator trip). Not much aircraft activity but a thrill!!! We met them at the zoo. Josephine did not win (darn); she was more poised than the other girl, but the other girl was older and working at the bakery in Budaka to make money for nursing school, and also, has "just" one lame foot and Josephine is in a wheel chair - might have looked easier to transport (tho' no one would even say that).

Ate lunch at the zoo - brought chicken, rice, chipati and sodas on the bus (cooked by the kids the nite before)....sandwiches are not "food" here - it has to be cooked!!! It was a real project folding wheelchairs, stowing them in the back seat of the bus (about 12), carrying kids on and off, and taking wheelchairs on and off at PH, the airport and the zoo - but it got done and all had a great time!! Got back to Nkokonjeru at 10 p.m.

It doesn't seem like Christmas - no decorations up and just a few presents to give....I miss the carols blaring everywhere!

Tuesday we marked all the basins etc. w. marker and the big give away began- actually, it went very smoothly - they called the kids up one by one and they were very quiet! Moses and I went down to meet with the Community Development Officer from Nkokonjeru Town Council (like a township or small county). He was actually there at the appointed time (YEA) and seemed interested in going out w. Moses to assess need. The Town Clerk (boss) was not so easy - he tried to impress us w. what they've done (tho' we know none of it was their initiative - all things given by other organizations). I asked if they had done a survey of disabled people in Nkokonjeru Town Council Area (about 15,000 people) and he said they had, and identified 151 disabled people (exclusive of PH residents); There are practically 151 in Moses' back yard!!! They are really not looking!!!

Said goodbye to Eveliyn and Tessa - sorry to see them go - they are full of energy and fun!!! Visited Sr. Goretti - she seems to be doing O.K. for someone w. long scar and major surgery.
Meeting w. Fred to plan our animal feed situation; Sr. Juliet was handling the milk money for Sr. Goretti and spent it on other necessities so we have to re-group. Our regular animal guy isn't back and one of the older boys is caring for the cow and one of the girls is doing the pigs, but not with Vincent's diligence (Edward, the interim is gone) and it shows. Now we have the layers (who haven't laid yet) and the new chickens! I helped Jamil w. our layers - I really hate chickens!!! Fred and I reviewed all the pens, got greens for the pigs (they love them), and cleaned the cows stall and gave her fresh water and grass. Hoping to sell a big pig over Christmastime to get them some more food (oh, yes, and got poison for all the rats in the pig's storeroom - Merry Christmas!).

Wednesday a.m. I took Becky on the matatu to Mukono to introduce her to Ugandan travel and shopping - it actually went well and we had a great breakfast at the Colline Hotel!!! It's been hot, dry and dusty, but rained on my sheets on Thursday and has been raining off and on since!

Christmas Eve, Holly, and her friend Adam, a PCV in Mukono, made a great meal - vegetarian meatloaf, mac and cheese, beans and salad and pineapple crumble and apple tart for dessert - fabulous. Becky came as did the Australian Doctor volunteering at the hospital - she's 32 and a real go-getter - and the Ugandan anesthesiologist. We all went to 10 p.m. Mass - at the old sisters small chapel since the big chapel is still not re-roofed (started in June). Got up at 4:30 and called home - Curt and Jamie and Gail and Jesse and kids were there for Christmas Eve - heard that the 10 p.m. service was canceled because of snow. Bert called Christmas day and said they were effectively "snowed in" and enjoying it!!!

Christmas at PH - not as awesome as last year when we had all the PCVs here - also there are lots fewer residents left this year....Sister really worked at getting most home. Sr. Goretti is still in the hospital and she is the community organizer - sort of like the mom at the PH convent. The sisters cooked and served for the kids - lunch was supposed to be at 1 but it was more like 4! But they'd had eggs and porridge (w. milk and sugar) in the a.m.; great dinner of chicken, mataoke, rice, cabbage, bananas and cake - and sodas!!! Gave away small bags of candy; I gave them the 40 what I thought were plastic straws (Valentine motiff) from my church military box, but they turned out to be whistles, which the kids loved, but were LOUD. Sr. Salome (visiting) and I decorated the tree (really a shrub, but neat)....Corky had sent me all your last year's Christmas cards and I saved them and they use them for tree decorations along w. balloons - it works!

At the end of the day, Becky said (in her priceless British accent) - "it's rather like being in One Flew Over The Cukoo's Nest" - great assessment!!!

Whew, done - now to send and head to the taxi park to get a matatu to Entebbe - then have to take a taxi to the airport - can't go direct by matatu. Judith has the ticket info but we want to be there about noon. Flight leaves at 3 - stopover in Nairobi - and we arrive at10:25. We have booked at the Australian Hostel - $13/nite/person - private double w. a bath!! and they pick us up a the airport!!! They also offer tours taking the train to Luxor and we may access that service - nice to have some guidance!!!

Take care and hope you all had a good Christmas - Best wishes for 2010 - finally have made it to my return year - YEA! We have our Close of Service Conference in mid-January and think that's when we know our actual departure date (and are introduced to the mountains of federal govt. paperwork). Lots to look forward to!!

Wednesday, December 16, 2009

Rwanda - December 16, 2009

I'm going to do the blog this week from Rwanda - I just had so many impressions and stories from here (and found a great internet cafe). I was here in 2006 w. the Compassion trip, but did not, at the time, appreciate the orderliness of Rwanda - it's amazing!!! Things happen on time, the streets are clean, there are no piles of garbage, the boda drivers (motor bike taxis) have helmets and are registered, AND, there are marked crosswalks, people use them and vehicles actually stop!!!! That impressed me in 2006, but now, after almost 2 years in Uganda, I find it absolutely amazing!! How can two countries, that are so close, be so different in temperment. Rwandans are absolutely law abiding; Ugandan has the same laws (no plastic bags, helmeted drivers, etc.) but no one enforces or obeys them!!! Some say that the extreme respect for following orders may have re-inforced the actions in the 1994 genocide (like in Germany) but other countries have had genocides (Turkey, Balkans) - w/o that quality.

I still wonder at the calm and co-operation here - it was only 15 years ago that the genocide occurred. Many people don't seem to want to talk about it - they would just rather forget (or try to). The one person who really was eager to answer questions was our Compassion guide yesterday, but he just came here from Uganda after the genocide and so didn't live through it. Plusca's parents and siblings were killed at their home. She was about 6....and I really don't know how she alone survived.


Faustin, Kath and Plusca


Plusca and Elsa


On with the trip diary - got on the bus in Kampala O.K. and the ride went well (10 hours total), but the border crossing was almost my undoing. You get off the bus and it goes "somewhere"; you stop at the Ugandan immigration office and get a stamp , then walk about 1/2 mile down the road ("no-man's land" where you are practially assaulted by money changers) to the Rwandan immigration office where you get stamped in! I was really worried about "losing" the bus, but it showed up on the Rwandan side (a miracle!) - the border officials completely empty it and check all incomng luggage, boxes, etc. I did change my Ug. shillings at the border tho' all the shouting for my business made me really nervous; found out when I got to Kigali that I could have done better at the FOREX (exchange offices) in town but I didn't know! There are about 3-4 Ugandan shillings to a Rwandan Franc so I'm learning money all over again! Traveling alone is not as easy as with another person; I'm hardly the world traveler you may think I am - it's a struggle!!!!

Kathy with Faustin's Family and Plusca


As we entered Rwanda you are struck immediately by the great roads and the neat fields. Lots of tea and rice plantations. There is even an obvious attempt at re-forestation.

My phone didn't work in Rwanda - there is no ZAIN network (later bought an MTN sim card, but my phone has some sort of Uganda code that wouldn't accept it). However, when I got off at the bus park a taxi man approached me and let me use his phone to call Plusca - we agreed to meet at St. Famille Church where I'd hoped to stay (they have a guesthouse) and he drove me there; unfortunately, they were full, but he took me to another hotel nearby where I got a room - I paid him well, but he was worth every franc! I had my backpack and a big heavy bag w. presents and didn't want to be walking all over looking for a room. My room is $24/nite and is really quite nice - esp. compared to where Compassion recommended at $100-140/nite!!! (more than I'd pay in Kampala, but I need to find a spot and it's very near the City Centre).

The cabbie then took me back to St. Familles - it's a big Catholic Church near the City Centre where over a thousand Tutsis actually were given refuge during the months of the genocide (many churches turned into death traps). Plusca, Elsa (her little girl) and her cousin Gerald met me there. Plusca speaks little English, so Gerald was the translator.

Plusca looks great and Elsa, at almost 4, is quite the charmer. We had lunch at the hotel - rice, peas and meat in a sauce - much spicier than Ugandan food. Then we took a matatu to her home area. She and Elsa live in a little rented room near her aunts who have a small, but very full house - there are two "aunts" who have 12 children - some are theres' and some are orphans - living with them (husbands and parents were killed in 1994 - it's hard to fathom the impact of those 3 months on this tiny country). One aunt works in a hotel - I have no idea how they support all those children but they all go to school. I wish I could send pictures now, but will ry to add at least a few from the PC office. After the visit they took me back to City Centre. I walked around a bit at the shopping areas (they have a big Naukamatt - South African, 24 hour, Wal-Mart that's in Kampala, too) - only about 5 minutes from my hotel. Checked out the Mille Colline (Hotel Rwanda) where we stayed in 2006 - it's undergone a massive upgrade!

Tuesday a.m. I had an interesting breakfast w. a German gentleman (v. nice breakfast included in the hotel price) - he was very sun-weathered and had a long white beard, but he must have been in his late 60s or 70 (said his mother was 89). He's been working in Africa "building machines" for 10 years and before that in India, but now is just traveling from Cairo to Capetown for fun!

Rwanda does not have ATMs - not sure why. There are some for local accounts that fooled me at first. I finally asked because I was supposed to have $100 (American) for the Compassion driver - I was sent to a big bank and was pleasantly surprised by the great help in their "Cash Dept" - within 10 minutes I had a $100 bill using my VISA card- and that at 8 a.m.!!!!

Pluaca was at the hotel and the Compassion driver and host picked us up at 8:30 - he was about 10 minutes late but had sent word via Plusca's cousin's phone - I was not expecting that kind of punctuality!!! The village was about 64 km out of Kigali; even out there the roads were better than many of the main roads in Uganda! We went first to their church/school - Baptist - where there are about 246 Compassion children!!! They gave a great welcoming ceremony - dancing, speeches etc. I felt a bit akward sitting in the front, and am sure Plusca, Faustin and his parents felt even more so!!! Faustin was part of the warrior dance troupe. We looked at his file and I was impressed w. his marks! Also, they record every time I have sent a "family contribution" through Compassion and what they bought - animals, clothes, house repairs, etc. I was a bit concerned by the recognition for the family since it may give the neighbors the impression that they have "muzungu connections" and money in the house! We went to their home - it was much nicer than I expected - brick and plaster w. a tin roof - 4 rooms and a nice compound; 3 cows and a goat and some land to cultivate! Definitely not the "poorest of the poor". I don't know if the donations the past years changed things that much for them - if so, they are good stewards! I do think they are very hard workers. Our Compassion rep, Eugene, was a lot of help - it must be difficult to keep shepharding muzungus who seem to have more to give away than you will ever have! I was glad that Plusca went along - he introduced her as a former Compassion child and seemed impressed with her story and that I continued to sponsor her individually after she had a baby (in 2005) and dropped from the Compassion program.

We got back around 3 and Plusca and I had lunch - same lunch at the hotel. She was very worried about talking to me tho' she speaks some English (and that's all I speak)....but she needs to practice. Rwanda just changed from French to English as their official language and joined the Commonwealth of Nations (which is otherwise limited to former English colonies)....so the schools are now just switching from French to English. Plusca just finished Secondary with a major in Hotels and Tourism, but she'll need to learn English and have some computer training before she is really employable - bummer! She's hoping to get some kind of a job to pay for the training and to send Elsa to school this year, but unskilled jobs, especailly for women, are hard to find except for cleaning, shop workers, etc. There are a lot of unemployed young men on the streets, too - not a good sign.

Nice nite of sleep in my little hotel - it's just a few rooms in a secluded courtyard. At breakfast today I sat w. a young couple who'd been on the bus from Uganda w. me (actually, seeing them on the bus helped me identify which was mine among all the buses and trucks at the border). They are free-lance journalists - she's from Germany and he's from the U.K. (married) and are traveling all over East Africa sending stories back to the German press! I'm impressed - unfortunately her blog site is in German! One good thing about traveling alone is that you meet lots of interesting people!!! Germany still seems pretty connected to Uganda - it was a German colony until after WWI when it was given to Belgium in the big African "give away".

Wednesday (today) was a great day. Got this blog started and met Plusca at the hotel at 10:30 - her cousin Gerald came along, which was nice. We went to the Genocide Memorial which has a very nicely done exhibit about what "caused" the genocide and what happened. We saw it in 2006 but it was much more effective seeing it w. two young people who lost parents and family in the 4 months in 1994! It's amazing that such a small country (8 mill. total at the time), who all speak the same language (Kiryawandan), unlike Uganda where there are many languages, could inflict such damage in 3-4 months! The upstairs portion reviews the genocides of the 20th century - Armenia, Cambodia, Germany, Namibia, Serbia - it was raining when we finished so we stopped at their "coffee shop" for lunch. Guess not a lot of people stop because the only item on the menu was a buffet mainly for the workers - cheap and LOTS of food - fries, rice, cassava, greens, beans, beef...full plates!!!

We walked down the hill from the Memorial and took a matatu to Ginkondo (south of Kampala city) where Plusca lives and saw her school. Went back and said good-bye to her aunt and Elsa and then we walked to Gerald's school - Kigali College of Banking and Finance - a beautiful campus on top of a hill w. lots of grass and trees! Then we had to say good-bye and I took a matatu back to town where I am now....getting ready to get something to eat and then go to the hotel, pack and go to bed. My bus leaves at 6 a.m. tomorrow - I'm about a 10 min. walk from the bus park. Just have enough money to get back (gave whatever else I had to Plusca). Hope to be back in Kampala in time to catch a matatu to Nkokonjeru and unload - got some great baskets from Faustin's family - and return to the PC office Friday to meet w. Judith and plan our Egypt vacation. Then, I'll stay in Nkokonjeru for a week - feel bad because Eveliyn and Tessa (Holland volunteers) are back for a visit and Becky (the retired nurse from the U.K.) will be coming again THursday, but they all can do just fine w/o me.

I'm really glad I came to Rwanda - sometimes it seems like a hassle, but seeing Faustin again and spending time w. Plusca was great! Doubt I'll ever see them again, but it's fun to have the connection! Pretty tame trip, but I saw Rwanda differently than I did the last time....much more personal.

I will try to get to the blog before Christmas, but if I don't, I wish all of you a very Merry Christmas - I hope you get time to enjoy the season and "God Bless You Everyone"!!!!

Sunday, December 13, 2009

Sunday, December 13, 2009

Remember when I thought these two months would be slow - well, it hasn't happened!!! I'm in Kamapla today on the eve of my brief trip to Rwanda. Finally got a call yesterday from someone who was with Plusca so I now have a contact and am more hopeful of meeting. On Tuesday I go to the Compassion office to get a ride to see Faustin (their requirement). Have some gifts for all - but not a lot because of carrying it all on the bus!!! I don't look forward to the bus ride, but I am really excited about the reunion and meeting Plusca's (22) little girl Elsa who is almost 4!

The week went fast. Sunday Mass was changed a bit because there was a retreat for some of the Sister's and it was just me and 70 nuns! Father kindly said "the sermon will deal mainly about living in the religious life" - don't think he knew what to say to me!!

I went out to Moses father's place for the Introduction in the afternoon. Supposed to start at 2, but of course it was 3 (not bad). The "engaged" couple have been living together for 10 years in order to save enough for the big event - and it is BIG. Tents, plastic chairs, flowers and lots of people. It starts w. all the family members taking turns approaching the bride's family and "introducing" themselves - like aunties, sisters, uncles, brothers dancing to them in turn.... Then two aunts "search" the crowd for the groom and bring him to be introduced. The bride and her attendants dance in (several times in different attire)....and the gift giving starts. The groom's relatives carry in dozens of big baskets full of food, then there is the required sack of sugar, the matoke, the sofa and chair set, and animals - he gave a cow and two goats - quite a collection of presents for the bride's parents. Surprise - they said O.K. to the marriage - tho' no one knows when that will be because it also has to be a BIG event and they have to start saving again - no wonder so few Ugandan couples are actually married!!! I sat w. Moses' sister who explained it all to me - she asked if we had a ceremony like this in America - had to admit "no", but weddings can be pretty big. I left at 7:00 because it was dark - they hadn't eaten lunch yet and generally you don't leave before the food, but I was tired and wanted to get back!

Oh, yes, Kiwaw is back (the boy who was having problems w. his father wanting to sell his head)...Sister J told a very funny story about waiting 2 1/2 days for the father to appear at the village. The father was very rude to her, but eventually was surrounded by villagers including the LC (mayor) and had to let Sister take him back. Kiwaw is full of smiles!!!!

Cindy sent me some Smithsonian magazines, mainly devoted to travel, and my favorite story was by a guy who'd traveled all over the world, but fulfilled a dream to drive across America - just quick road trip from LA to Cape Cod - it sounded so neat!!! His final remarks were "there wasn't a moment when I felt like I didn't belong...not a moment of alientation or danger - but always the reassurance that I was home, where I belonged, in the most beautiful country I'd ever seen". I read that part to Holly and we both teared up!!! Uganda is really a great country - but it's not MY country.

At CBR on Tuesday Moses and I were working on the year end reports and 2010 Workplan. He got talking about the problems connecting w. the government people, so we decided then and there to walk down to the Nkokonjeru Town Council office and see our Community Development Officer (back at site - sort of - after several years working on his university degree and not being around). Moses said "I like the way muzungu's do things - you just get up and go!". The guy was in another meeting, but we set a date to meet; he looked a little worried when I said we'd like to talk about their plans for helping the disabled in 2010 and if we could co-operate!. The CDO in Moses' district said he'd like to help and the government is supporting CBR, but he has to go to a workshop first to see what to do!!! (Workshops are a favorite Ugandan pasttime and a great money waster in my humble opinion - buit important to get lunch, per diem and travel allowance).

In the afternoon, Moses and I went w. Sr. Mwagale, a nurse a the hospital who works w. mothers and babies, out to see Baby Nakato (who at 2, in April, weighed under 5 lbs. when we took her to Mulago Hospital for a month). She still looks bad - reddish hair, swollen stomach and skinny limbs - at least she was alive and sitting up, but not walking. Saddest thing was her lack of expression - doesn't laugh anymore but also doesn't cry...just sits and stares! Her diet is still bad; mom has been trying - digging some gardens, but apparently gets little or no help from her husband or adult sons - who were absent when we got there - no one would say where they were, but our guess was "in town". Moses is going later in the month in the early morning to hopefully see the men and threaten them with getting the police involved if they don't start caring for their children - Nakato's parents have 10 living children and the adult boys have some, too, all living and eating together!!

Wednesday, Sr. Goretti went to see the Doctor again, but her cough was so bad he wouldn't operate. I volunteered to go to Mukono to get the medicine he prescribed (not available in Nkokonjeru)....got back late and then went out to the Nutrition class Holly had planned at Moses's home w. his group of Village Health Workers - started really late because of a local burial. Sr. Magwale talked about nutrition, Sam from RASD demonstrated planting bag gardens, and the hopspital dentist talked about dental hygiene. Very nicely done!

Thursday I went early to the PC office to type and use the computer and turn in my Egypt travel request (we need permission to travel - ugh). Then met Eveilyn and Tessa at the Mall - they are two OTs who were here as volunteers in early 2008 for 3 months and are back for two weeks!!! They are loads of fun and have lots of enthusiasm. Had a nice lunch of spinach ravioli (good!) and Sula and Sister picked us up around 3 p.m. The girls say they mised Uganda - the unpredictability of things, the colors, the warmth, the kids at PH - and even the bumpy road (????).

Firday Nelson and I planned his trip to CoRSU with clients next Tuesday; then Sr. J. and I sat w. Eveilyn and Tessa to plan how we hope to use the donations they brought! They are going to buy a plastic basin, soap, toothpaste, toothbrush, and vaseline for every resident!!!! A huge help w. personl hygiene. Also, another 100 layers as a learning project for another group of kids and to generate some income. They said PH seems to be doing much better than in early 2008 - nice compliment!!! Everyone is impressed w. the piggery, the cow and the vocational projects - not big profit makers, but we're aiming at training and sustainability!

In the afternoon we got two more visitors - retired nurses from the U.K. One is going to stay 3 months at PH!! I anticipate that, Becky, the one staying, will do well - she's very adaptable - you just have to be to survive here!!! She's a mom and grandmom about my age and lots of fun. I love their British expressions! The other woman, Jenny, is going back on Thursday and is part of a charity working in Uganda.

We are still having lots of rain - should be slacking off by now - but I don't miss the dust that will come when it does. Saturday I showed the new visitors around PH, the convent and the hospital and we had a nice "chat" about our families!!

So, now I'm off to Rwanda - hope to be back Thursday and on Friday will meet w. Judith, the PCV I'm going to Egypt with, to plan...then back to Nkokonjeru and my own bed!!! I'm already looking forward to it!

If you don't get back to the blog before - best wishes for a Merry Christmas!!! I'll try to blog on Friday when I'm back from Rwanda and still in Kampala. I always feel a little guilty leaving PH - will miss doing things with the Holland girls this week but it's fun to travel too!

Hope everyone is well and the sale of the referendum bonds went well - and that bids come in low!!!

Thanks to everyone for your fabulous support this past year - two years? I miss home a lot tho' I really don't miss the cold. I was a bit envious when Corky said you were having a blizzard!!! Anyone get a "snow day"?

Friday, December 4, 2009

Saturday, December 5, 2009

Hope all had a great Thanksgiving!!! Next year I'll be enjoying the turkey, etc. and some much valued family time!!! Only about 4 months to our Close of Service Date (April 9, 2010). Our COS conference is Jan. 10-14!!! That's where we get all the information I guess.


I sent Gail a picture CD - so check for pictures. Fewer this time - I'm slowing down!


Congrats Montgomery/Lonsdale District on passing the Bond Referendum!!!!! Gail said it has to start in Spring so when I come home they may be going - what a job well done!!! Completion in 2012! I'm excited to watch it progress!!!


Last week when I left off I was just going to Moses' graduation from the COMBRA program - 4 month training in community rehabilitation. It was 2 hours late (predictably) tho' I was there nearly on time - hard habit to break. He seemed very pleased w. the program and what he learned. He's a great asset to our community program and deserved the opportunity.



Last week's Christmas Program practice was going VERY poorly - also sound guy's phone was off for several days and the keyboard guy didn't show up (and no phone).....we were getting worried (well, I was. Stella, a young lady who is disabled and grew up at PH and is a recent college grad w/o a job so back living here was the program co-ordinator and she was staying calm). Power was out Friday and Sat., too!!! Stell was amazing!!! "It will work out"!


Spent Friday wrapping up - collected all the scissors and bobbins, got sales figures from Didas to do the year end shoe report. In 2008 we sold 167,000 shillings worth of shoes; in 2009 it was 1,606,000!!! He keeps good records!


Saturday a.m. I got down to PH prepared to work. Got greeens for the chickens myself - it felt good; I'm tired of prodding Sarah.....if Ugandans don't want to do something you ask them to do they just ignore your request! The kids were all busy cleaning the compound and getting ready for the Program. They still have to slaughter and clean 18 chickens and 2 small pigs and peel lots of bananas for matoke. I can't imagine adding thaose jobs to an American Christmas Program. I went w. Sr. Goretti to Lugazi w. the truck to buy groceries - she bought cabbabes and bananas on the way from guys w. bicycles loaded and headed to town!!!


Sunday a.m. was pretty hectic. I went to Mass and Father was talking about the "new Season" - I thought "Pentecost"? NO, it's actually ADVENT! When did that happen? You loose touch here.


When I got to PH, I asked Fred to take a boda up to the sound guy's home to confirm...he was coming he said, but we wanted wireless mikes. I told him when he got to PH - he said I should have told him sooner - it took all my patience not to scream "but, your phone was off for days"!!! He went back and brought them....they are never sure how to handle an upset muzungu! The keyboard guy came just as we were starting - did reduce his pay since he only came to 3 out of 6 promised practices. He told Stella he wouldn't work for me again unless I was "serious" next time about paying him!!! The tailoring teacher didn't come to put up the display of finished work, so I had to try to do it w. lots of help from the other tailoring teacher who works w. the two advanced students! Didas did a great display of materials, shoes and tools, the craft lady set up her table and Nelson had a photo display of his work w. the disabled. Pretty impressive.



The program was great (you knew it would be, didn't you?) - the kids did a really good job. Michelle's ( a PCV) sister was visiting her and she was Father Christmas at the end and was a riot. He wears a costume that makes him look like a begger and dances around giving out candy - everyone loves it! The old Sisters came from the retirement commmunity and seemed to really enjoy it...they love outings! Lunch got served to all - the PH kids cooked last nite w/o power - started at 3 a.m. w. lanterns! We did get a guy to come and video this year - I'm getting a copy to bring home! The day was a lot of work for all but it is worth it when it's over - a great co-operative effort!!!


Monday was understandable slow. Tuesday was World AIDS Day...Holly and her group at the hospital had a program planned. Maas at 9:00 (actually 10), the a walk through town and speeches and a drama group - very well done. Several of the speakers were clients who are HIV positive aand who urged people to test and get help ( there was free testing also availalbe). The drama group did songs, dances, plays....the crowd wasn't as big as hoped but it was very successful!



Holly had called me early Tuesday a.m. - she'd lost her wallet Monday nite and discovered it in the a.m. ID, her PC allowance for December, U.S. driver's license - really a LOT! She remembered using it at a shop in town Monday nite and then didn't think about it till Tuesday a.m. Probably dropped and stolen. She called PC and reported it to the Police but not much hope.


I'm reading The Last King of Scotland by Giles Folden....interesting and different in many places from the movie (which was good, but gory). In the early parts when it's still humorous, he talks about riding a matatu (van taxi). Two years ago if I had ready about the rickety van, jammed w. people and animals, full of noise and smells and luggage I would have thought he was exaggerating. Now, I just read and say, "Yup, been there, done that".... Next book is Abbissyan Chronicles by a Ugandan author and his coming of age during the Amin years. Found it at the PC office library.


Tuesday evening Sister, Nelson and I worked to finish an evaluation of the OT volunteers we've had in 2008 and 2009 - Liliane Foundation was reqeusting it before considering us for the 2010 volunteers . I was secretary so we did it "American style" - very brief and to the point. One of the BIG benefits was the attention the vounteers give the kids, who need it desperately, and the energy and new ideas they bring to the staff - intangibles, but really appreciated.


Wednesday a.m. I called Gail at 5 a.m. but it was only 8 p.m. and no news on the referendum. She called back when I was on the matatu to Kamplala and told me the good news!!! Spent most of the day at the PC office typing reports and the aforementioned evaluation which was due Thursday!!! PCV lounge has four computers and is always busy - lots of visiting goes on so it's a fun place to work - I "typed" for over five hours...my butt was sore!!!


Holly got her wallet back - but just w. the ID's bank cards and driver's license. Still it's something. Sr. Benna predicted that whoever stole the money will go out and buy a lot of stuff since "they didn't sweat to earn the money"...and, if the money's spent they don't have to return it!!!!


Sister Juliet went to Kampala Thursday w. a load - several kids going to drop off points to go home; a child going for review at CoRSU - many, many stops. She was also going to take one of the boys, Kiwaw (10) all the way home. His grandmother came to take him and told the most remarkable story. She said that she'd brought Kiwaw some time ago to PH becasue his mom was gone and dad was a drunkard and mad. After he'd been away for awhile, the dad accused her of selling the boy's head to a medicine man since he hadn't seen him. He wasn't upset about the supposed decapitation, but about her not sharing the money with him!!! So, she had to produce the boy or the money and she wanted him back. The boy told Sister that prior to coming he'd heard his dad concoct a plan to sell his head (so dad had the idea but he thought grandma captialized on it!!) and he was understanably nervous about going back - he tried to hide. Sister said that from the two stories it sounded legit so she was going to asses the situation and maybe show the dad the boy and bring him back!!! It's a crazy world.


Thursday we had 61 at the Epilepsy clinic - we had an efficient team. I'm trying to back off and everyone else does well! Nice feeling.



Holly and I have resumed our evening walks. Wednesday night three little kids w. big brown faces, peeked up from a ditch and yelled "Hello, muzungu" as we passed - full of smiles at their surprise. Sunset was spectacular - sometimes I forget the really neat stuff!


Friday, I helped Nelson "cast" Serafina's leg - it's contracting again w/o the caliphers...which remain at Katelemwa for re-fitting (they are SO slow). He used a wrap that hardens when wet....she was pretty unhappy at our pushing her knee down, but had to be done.


In the afternoon we all went to a burial of a really nice disabled man who worked at the bakery. (Yes, we go to a lot of burials - part of life - can't imagine what it was like when AIDS was rampant) Most people are buried in a family plot near the ancestral home usually in a banana grove. He was only 30 but had osteomyletis and had surgery some years ago, but people said he was having problems w. pussing wounds and didn't have money/didn't want to go to the hospital and he died, we think, from a massive infection. There were lots of peole there - many disabled who walked/got pushed out the five miles from town. Nelson and I ended up in the back of the double cabin truck w. the kids and it POURED rain - we were absolutely soaked. When we got back to Nkokonjeru it hadn't rained at all in town! One of those African experiences I guess!!!


Holly went into the PC office Friday and they re-funded her lost money - really nice of them. It's hard when that allowance is all you have!!!


So, the week comes to a close. I'm going to an "introduction" tomorrow in Moses' family - it's a huge deal (and long) where the couple gets engaged and the families exchange presents - mainly the groom giving the bride's parents cows, sofas, etc. Wednesday Holly is having her last grant activitiy - a nutrition class and gardening advice for Moses' group of Community Health Volunteers, Thursday we pick up Evelyn and Tessa - Holland volunteers in early 2008 - who are coming for a visit....so the week looks pretty busy. Next week I'll be in Rwanda visiting my Compassion children....looking forward to that.


Another older lady PCV (younger than me tho') and I are going to Egypt right after Christmas for a few days (Dec. 26-31)....she wanted to go and I figure it's my one shot at seeing Egypt on the "cheap".....it should be fun. She's really energetic so we'll do a lot!


Best wishes for the Holiday Season - going into the really busy time of year for most - good luck!!! I'll miss Christmas and all the little ones especially, but the end is in sight!


Thanks again for all your support - I check the P.O. box before I started on the internet and I have mail - YEA! I enjoy the e-mail, but having a piece of paper that actually started w. someone at home is really special! Hard to explain.....


est wishes and happy holidays! Guy at the internet cafe is playing the soundtrack from Lord of the Rings - love it!!!!

Tuesday, December 1, 2009

New Pictures

I have added some new pictures to the Flickr site - they're in a group titled November Pictures.

Enjoy!

Gail